Friday, November 15, 2013

                           Summer 2011

Some older footage I finally got around to editing. I have about forty older clips I need to put together but for now enjoy some of the best climbs Washington has to offer. Including Beautifucation, the best line in Leavenworth in my opinion. I have been climbing like crazy lately ticking of most of the best hard lines in Washington and Squamish. So lookout for good quality videos I will be putting out when my girl gets back from France (she has the only labtop that can process my camera).  Good Times.

Friday, November 1, 2013

Dave's masterpiece 

The Teacup v13





Dave Thompson made the first ascent of The Teacup. Around these parts it is rare to climb a hard line that was not put up by Johnny G. As it turns out Dave also put up God is in the Details v13 before all the knee bars brought it down to soft v12, 101 Ways to Fling Poo v12 before a hold crumbled and got bigger now v10, Beautification v11 best climb in Leavenworth in my opinion, but his crown jewel is definitely The Teacup v13. I first meet Dave at Stone Gardens. He was the crusher, I was the noob trying to work my way up the ladder. Over time I became good enough to climb on the same lines as him and we became friends. We have very similar styles. I learned learned a lot by watching him climb.
        The Teacup is definitely a classic perfect hard line that everyone knows about and not meany have done. Dave, Johnny, Joel, and Cole have really paved the way for Washington bouldering. I made a goal to repeat there lines and get a good foundation for future first ascents. Last fall I had cleaned up on most of the hard lines so I tried The Teacup and it felt surprisingly doable. Then came the rain. First good day that following spring 2013 I was right back at it. I had a lot of psych after thinking about it all winter. I soon found out that it sits in the sun all day. I opt for a night session. Great temps made the holds fill so crisp. I fired the crux move first go, I knew it was on. After fumbling the first move a couple times (it has a crappy heel hook that doesn't like to stay) I was on top finishing my first v13 and adding my name to the elite list of ascentists. That line is a great mile stone in my climbing, now on to bigger and better objectives.
That following fall  I watched Carlo Traverse also repeat the line with some crazy short guy beta. More impressive was his take down of the infamous Latter proj naming it The Penrose Step v14. I can't wait to try. A couple of weeks later Jimmy Webb made the first flash of The Teacup, very impressive. I am not as big of a fan of flashes as I am limit pushing fa's or repeats. I hope that both of them add more hard perfect lines for me to test myself on.     
Proj by The Teacup