Monday, May 26, 2014


Bishop Winter 2013 from Ben Herrington on Vimeo.

Spector
Peter on Fly Boy ArĂȘte v5
Bishop                        
                                                                                                           Scanner Darkly
My girlfriend Davita and I headed down to Bishop for her two week winter vacation. We met up with our travel buddies Peter and Roxana. The goal for the trip was to try Spector v13, which is by the way one of the best lines I have ever see and by far the best in Bishop. The first week we where there sucked. It was way to cold, and we spent most of are time at the Happies where we could climb in direct sunlight from noon to four. It made climbing a tedious task, but I didn't want to leave empty handed. I managed to climb Kill On Sight v12 in a quick session. In this down grade crazed time we live in, I am surprised this one hasn't gotten the axe. Davita killed it crushing Solarium v4. By week two the weather was nice, so we got to work at the Buttermilks. I warmed up to the area climbing Junior Achievement v8, Iron Fly v9, Moonraker v8/9, and Evilution to the lip v10. I surprised myself by climbing Evilution in a couple of goes with about five pads. I could hear them shuffling them around as I climbed and when I dropped from the lip one foot barely missed the pads. We moved over to the Grandma Peabody and I climbed Thunderbird v11 and started trying the sit Direction v13. I did all the moves when I punched a nice hole in my finger on the crux razor crimp that you yard on to make the jump move. I came back some days later and I fell on the last hard move, the match after the jump. Next time. The other climb I got interested in was Scanner Darkly v12. I did the stand v9, did all the moves on the sit from the legit start which is a lot harder and made some good links. I came back on a really hot day and got no were on it. It has a really sharp undercling that the crux revolves around that wrecked my skin on three of my fingers. I couldn't manage to climb it with tape. Next time. Davita climbed her hardest climb outside Go Granny Go v5 after a couple days work. Last was Spector v13, I tried it twice with a cool guy I met named Sander, he got as close as you can get without sticking the crux move (he also sent Scanner). On the last day I got close using a heel hook. Last try I was doing the set up move when I heard a pop, it was the pulley in my palm for my index finger. All in all, I had a good time, but I didn't send any of the hard lines that I really wanted to do. I will have to go back to finish them off. 

Davita crushing Go Granny Go v5


Sander
Highballin

Gang Bang


I'm not the biggest fan of Bishop. The lines are good looking, but the rock is crap. I like friction. Bishop is super slippery and polished. It's good but not world class. Climbing is always fun, but in my opinion Bishop doesn't live up to the other bouldering meccas.


Davita killing it