Directions to

                         Joe's Valley FA's                           

                    

Directions-
The Cosmos Boulder is above the Man Size area. Past the Triangle boulder walk up hill following the wash to your left. After about 5-10 min the wash will bend to the left. The Cosmos boulder is in the middle of the wash and is very obvious.

Innagada Davita v7/8ish is in Left Fork at mile marker 7 just past the pullout for the Blackout boulder. There is an obvious big arete on the up hill side of the road. About 100ft left of the arete is a little black roof Davita put up called Oblivious v5. Walk up the easier but steep wash to Oblivious from there head up canyon out of the boulders then strait up hill a 100yds. It sits on high ground between the washes. You can see the top of the boulder from the road.

Propaganda v10- From the Mine Cart boulder look at the river slightly down canyon. It is on the right side of the giant boulder in the river. I also put up a line on the left side of the face starting matched on a right facing crimp rail leading to some hard moves on cool holds Called Road Trip v?ish.

Catalina Wine Mixer v4ish is in Left Fork. From are campsite which was the last big pull out (it has a boulder in the pull out) before the National park sign/gate. Walk up the road between 100-200yds the top of the boulder can be seen on the north side of the road. It's about 30ft from the road.

Joe's Valley Adventures

Beyond Life Sit V12

We had high hopes for Joe's Valley weather after leaving the blazing heat of Moe's. Luckily, the weather was cooler, windier, and there were so many cool lines to climb. One of the first boulder's Ben ticked off was one he had almost sent a couple years ago but left empty handed. He took Beyond Life Sit V12 down quickly this time around. While he relaxed after his send, I got to work on my project, Will's of Fire, which sits just on the opposite end of the Beyond Life wall. Both lines, sit on the prettiest wall in Joe's with the cleanest rock. Will's of Fire V6 was one of my biggest sends on our whole trip.
I worked on just the finger lock crux for two full sessions, until I figured out how

Will's of Fire V6

to position my figures so that I could bust to the really good edge at the top. I originally thought that stretching to the pocket (shown in the picture) would be the crux, but I was able to do that move almost every time. Finally on my third sessions, I put it down. This ended up being an amazing day for me. I started out by first going two V3's that the year before had taken me some work, I send my project Will's, and went on to flash Mono E Mono V5. This is the best day of climbing I have probably ever had. Days like these are always so unexpected and surprising, but extremely rewarding at the same time. I find its usually about the mindset. Having a clear mind, being prepared to try hard, and having that be the primary goal of the day really helps me to focus and sometimes meet huge goals like sending Will's.

Mono E Mono V5 Flash

After about two weeks, we were getting a little worn out. Joe's is are hard place to stay for long stretches because the towns around the climbing area are so small. Ben was also getting a little frustrated because he couldn't do the main lines he wanted to do due to his injured finger. He was super psyched on Slasher V13 and Blackout V13. Instead of putting in painful efforts on these lines, he decided to do some developing. On our rest days we would hike around the hill sides searching for untouched lines and we actually found a handful of cool first ascents. I helped clean and work on this awesome climb called Inagaada Davita V7ish, which I originally thought I would be able to climb, but it ended up being harder than expected. Ben was so sweet and ended up naming it after me. It has this crazy pocket on it that goes at least 2 feet into the rock. It then has a huge move to a good edge. It is a beautiful boulder that sits just up the hill from mile marker 7 heading up left fork. You park at mile marker 7 and there will be a wash on the right hand side with a little boulder I put up called Oblivious. Its a little roof boulder. Once you hit that boulder you go up and slightly to the left until you See Inagaada Davita.

Inagaada Davita 

The next boulder we developed Ben actually found last year. It is now called the Cosmos Boulder and has three perfect hard lines on it. We went to work cleaning this boulder which took a lot of effort because the whole top was covered in ice. Roxana did a lot of work smashing the ice and Ben and I would peel it off and toss it over the side. Once all the cleaning was done, it was time for projecting and sending. The Cosomos V9ish went down first. It has big holds and a difficult dyno at the top to a slopy hold. It is a sick looking problem.

Cleaning Inagaada Davita 

Next Ben went to work on Champagne Supernova V9ish and Interstellar V11ish. These lines are both different styles. Champagne Supernova starts on a rounded jug and consists of tension climbing out a steep bulge. Interstellar starts on a jug to the right of Champagne Supernova and climbs through some bigger moves on smaller incut crimps. This boulder sits up the wash from the Man Size area in Right Fork. You walk up the wash or right next to the wash for about 10 minutes from the triangle boulder at the back of the Man Size area until you come across the Cosmos. It sits right in the wash.

Roxana removing ice off  the Cosmos Boulder

Interstellar V11ish

Cosmos V9ish

Big move on Interstellar 

Champagne Supernova V9ish

Cleaning up Interstellar 

Ben was wandering around the camp sight and found Catalina Wine Mixer V4ish

Catalina Wine Mixer

As awesome as the lines are in Joe's, it can be super draining. The food choices are few and far between and there really isn't much to do on rest days. Ben especially struggled with the lack of food choices and was itching to leave. We stuck around for another week and a half so I could send Chips V7 which was my other major project in New Joe's. Sadly, I left this one empty handed. I ended up hurting another finger on it (previously having 2 finger injuries) as well as getting a huge flapper. I fell off going for the jug. It was extremely disappointing. I had worked on this line for 6 days. But, thats the way it goes with bouldering. There is so much patience involved and learning how to deal with failure. In these moments it is so important to stay positive and not get too discouraged. I struggled with this a lot, but the confidence comes back slowly and you move on to try other hard and awesome lines.

Wrecking Ball V8

On a positive note, during our last week Roxana was able to send another V4, which was her second V4 ever so that was pretty awesome and Ben took down multiple 10's and 11's. He also sent this super cool V8 called Wrecking Ball that sits in a new area called the Dam Boulder's. This is a super scary climb because its a huge horizontal dyno and if you swing out and fall you can fall straight down this steep hill. Luckily there was a nice landing built and we had a lot of pads that day so Ben as well as our friend David sent back to back. As scary as it is, it is one of the cooler lines in Joe's I think. Ben then went on to send the two V10's on the Smiley boulder that he had not already done as well as sending Trent's Mom V11 and Simple Twist of Fait V10. On our second to last day he sent Death Scream V9/10, TNA a hard V9 and Eye of the Beholder V10 and got close on Barley Legal V11. All and all, Joe's had better weather, cool climbs, and plenty of sends. I was disappointed to leave Chips behind, but I was also feeling exhausted.  By the time we left for Salt Lake and Little Cottonwood, we were all ready for the comforts of the city.  I am definitely planning on going back to Joe's to send Chips, hopefully in the next year. It is always on the back of my mind.

View our video at
https://vimeo.com/138688080

Apple Bottom Jeans V10

Trent's Mom V11

Simple Twist of Fait V10 

Death Scream V9/10

Pimper's Paradise V5

 

Eye of the Beholder V10