Trespass Boulders, Morpheus, and Five Star 

Morpheus, is one of the many new areas that keep popping up all around Washington. Miles, Jesse, and Pablo are responsible for most of the development of this area. Early last fall Mike May showed Santo, Corey, Kris, and I around. Its about twenty minutes past Index on highway 2. We stopped at the first boulder we came to and warmed up on all the lines on it. I was antsy to try some of the cooler hard lines that I had heard of. The first boulder is not that inspiring. So near by on the river sits another boulder with a good vertical moderate. After I climbed it I looked to the left noticing a perfect slopey rail then some barely there holds, but it looked like it might be climbable. I was surprised this perfect line on one of the first boulders you come across hadn't been climbed. Turns out the water level is to high almost all year. Apparently I came at the perfect time. I started cleaning it up and feeling out the holds. The others caught wind and joined in thinking we might snag the fa of such an awesome line. The climb revolves around a left hand slopey edge with a good thumb catch. At first I was thinking I would gaston the thumb catch because it looks like a decent vertical edge but after trying the first move I decided I needed a down pulling hold. The wall is about 30 degrees overhanging and the rails are extremely slopey. There is a good foot out left taking some of the much needed weight off your hands. After figuring out the first move I was trying to jump off the left hand to a grippy but bad slopey divot near the lip. I could get my hand on it but I couldn't hold it. The rest of the guys were discouraged because they were not able to stick the first move. They decided to move on.  I decided to walk up with them and check out the main area.

Log crossing

Follow the White Rabbit v10ish 

About a ten minute walk with a couple boulders on the trail (including an amazing proj) we crossed a big log over the river then up a steep little hill to get to the talus. I ran off scoping all the boulders and caves. Nothing got me as psyched as the proj by the river. The boulders in the talus were a little underwhelming. They were one and two mover problems. I was told later the good stuff was up the hill and there were pictures to back it up. After running around the talus for a half hour I came back down to see Corey getting close on a pull your butt of the ground one mover v8 that looked ok. So I headed back down to the proj where I had left my things. That time spent running around gave my arms a good rest. I got back to work finding a way to bring my right hand up to a none existent sloper with a one finger microscopic divot then jumping to the better divot. I had just purchased a canon t3i and was happy to get some quality video of the first ascent (at the time I did not realize if you shot vertical it would not fill the screen).  After I set up the camera I started making attempts from the start. After falling on the jump move repeatedly, I finally snagged it perfectly and got the fa of Follow the White Rabbit v10. As I started to mantle over on the topout jug a piece broke off in my hand almost sending me backwards into the river. Feeling good about the fa I walked up stream to try another good looking line Miles had put up called Landjager v9. One solid go later I was on top, flashing the problem and thinking it was more like v8. Grades aside there both great lines worth a trip up to Morpheus to do. Next time I want to see the rest of the area. Pablo has made a topo to the area at expouldering.com

Amazing proj

Lower roof Rebel v8ish 

Trespasser v8ish

I found the Trespass boulders trying to find the Glena boulders. As you drive into Index instead of turning left on the bridge to Index you go straight for a while. You will see a little boulder right off the road on the left side. Right after that you will see the boulders on the hillside in a clear cut past a no trespassers sign. There are two boulders. Both have great roof climbing on granite. The lower roof has three awesome lines. All starting on a blocky hold with two good edges on it. The main line Rebel v8, busting out right to a big rail then up the arete using a perfect three finger pocket edge in the middle of the blank face.  Trespasser v8 exits right out a hole with cool slopers. The second boulder is right above it jutting over the hill side and hosts the awesome problem Rise Against v11 (in the video). It starts on a low left hand jug and a small incut right hand edge. It climbs out the middle of the roof and tops out to the right. Private Property v7 climbs the arete just right of Rise Against. All the climbs are gym style roofs with big moves on incut holds with decent feet. After reading this, I hope more people get out and try these great problems.

Five star is one of the best boulders in the world and, in my opinion, Toebriosity/Ebriosity are the best lines on it. The first time I acknowledged that Toebriosity was a line of its own I was at Five Star, and Dave Thompson was working the line. After trying the line with him I realized how good it was. You do the first couple hard moves on Ebriosity into a much harder ending on slopey holds with crazy tension which all leads up to the crux move for the slopey lip with a hard to snag thumb catch.  In the guide book it says that if you climb the direct its about the same in difficulty. No way! Ebriosity was my first v11 and it took me a long time to get another one. Safe to say its soft for the grade and Toe is solid v12. They felt miles apart to me. I would literally warm up on Ebriosity for Toe. It took me three good sessions to get Toebriosity (named after the first ascentist's funky toe, Joal Campbell). None the less, both are amazing problems not to be missed.