Roadtrip Red Rocks
We got off to a good start. After a great day in Black Velvet we decided to see Kraft and Gateway. We ran around climbing a lot of classics trying to put in a lot of milage. We stopped at the Monkey Bar Boulder where Davita was getting close on Monkey Bar Right v6. I managed to flash Monkey Bar Direct v8. Feeling good, we went back into Gateway to try Book of Nightmares v11. Personally I think it is one of the best looking lines in Red Rocks. I surprised myself by doing it in a couple tries. Then we went up to Americana Exotica v10 where a cool guy named Nick and I proceeded to try it for a hour and a half before I finally figured out a way that worked for me. That thing is tricky. Such a fun day of climbing.
The weather on the trip was not ideal hovering around 70 degrees. A couple days later it was a little cloudy so I thought I would head back to Kraft to try to improve my flash game. I'm not very good at flashing but it is fun to try. We met up with Isaac Caldiero, a really good climber I had met a couple days ago. It's not very often that I get to climb with people at my level. It's nice to push the session to higher levels. We headed to Angel Dyno v7 where I botched the flash then sent it right after. Next was Progressive Guy v10. On the flash I stuck the crux move when my heel popped. Someone suggested a different heel and there went my second try. Third go I switched back to my heel beta and sent it. We then tried Scare Tactics v10, Isaac gave me a great spray down. Flash go my foot popped on the first move. Pulled right back on and sent. All in all, I such at flashing but I'm getting closer to one day flashing something hard.
|Second comp, first finals.|
The weather was looking like rain for the next couple days so we decided to take part in a competition at the local climbing gym. I had done one comp prier to this one a couple months ago. It was a black light comp. This one was a lot more fun and not a lot of pressure at all. No lines, it felt more like a session. Two climbs into the comp Davita ruptured a pulley on a crimpy line. That was a bummer. I was the only one who managed to send the hardest problem in qualifying. I was really nerves when they called my name for finials. Comps are tricky, you climb hard for three hours then sit around for two hours and cool off then you have to try super hard. I came out of isolation really nervous and not ready to climb hard. There were only two finals problems. First was a dyno to a techy mantle I almost sent but fell off the end. The second was a roof climb that I could not have read worse. After seeing the correct method it didn't look that hard at all which sucked but I guess thats comp climbing for yah. I got fourth.
First day back real climbing we went back to Black Velvet to finish off Wet Dream. After refiguring out the harder bits I thought to give it a go from the beginning. On the first move my foot popped unexpectedly but I tried to hold it anyway and as I rotated the pulley on my right ring finger inside my palm made a nice pop. ahhhhhhhhhhhhh. no not now! I could barely weigh it. A lot of emotions were running through us with both Davita and I injured. In my rage I was ready to throw in the towel and head home. After I came to my senses I thought we should just take it easy. We did decided there was no way we were going to Hueco not only was it super hot this year but now with both of us injured steep edge climbing was out. Sport climbing was now on the agenda.
|Random 5.11 onsight|
|Big K v8 Flashed on the walk out one day.|
|I love this girl.|