Monday, May 26, 2014


Bishop Winter 2013 from Ben Herrington on Vimeo.

Spector
Peter on Fly Boy ArĂȘte v5
Bishop                        
                                                                                                           Scanner Darkly
My girlfriend Davita and I headed down to Bishop for her two week winter vacation. We met up with our travel buddies Peter and Roxana. The goal for the trip was to try Spector v13, which is by the way one of the best lines I have ever see and by far the best in Bishop. The first week we where there sucked. It was way to cold, and we spent most of are time at the Happies where we could climb in direct sunlight from noon to four. It made climbing a tedious task, but I didn't want to leave empty handed. I managed to climb Kill On Sight v12 in a quick session. In this down grade crazed time we live in, I am surprised this one hasn't gotten the axe. Davita killed it crushing Solarium v4. By week two the weather was nice, so we got to work at the Buttermilks. I warmed up to the area climbing Junior Achievement v8, Iron Fly v9, Moonraker v8/9, and Evilution to the lip v10. I surprised myself by climbing Evilution in a couple of goes with about five pads. I could hear them shuffling them around as I climbed and when I dropped from the lip one foot barely missed the pads. We moved over to the Grandma Peabody and I climbed Thunderbird v11 and started trying the sit Direction v13. I did all the moves when I punched a nice hole in my finger on the crux razor crimp that you yard on to make the jump move. I came back some days later and I fell on the last hard move, the match after the jump. Next time. The other climb I got interested in was Scanner Darkly v12. I did the stand v9, did all the moves on the sit from the legit start which is a lot harder and made some good links. I came back on a really hot day and got no were on it. It has a really sharp undercling that the crux revolves around that wrecked my skin on three of my fingers. I couldn't manage to climb it with tape. Next time. Davita climbed her hardest climb outside Go Granny Go v5 after a couple days work. Last was Spector v13, I tried it twice with a cool guy I met named Sander, he got as close as you can get without sticking the crux move (he also sent Scanner). On the last day I got close using a heel hook. Last try I was doing the set up move when I heard a pop, it was the pulley in my palm for my index finger. All in all, I had a good time, but I didn't send any of the hard lines that I really wanted to do. I will have to go back to finish them off. 

Davita crushing Go Granny Go v5


Sander
Highballin

Gang Bang


I'm not the biggest fan of Bishop. The lines are good looking, but the rock is crap. I like friction. Bishop is super slippery and polished. It's good but not world class. Climbing is always fun, but in my opinion Bishop doesn't live up to the other bouldering meccas.


Davita killing it




Thursday, April 24, 2014

Skateboarding

I love skateboarding but climbing has kind of taken over. On my rest days I love to session with my skater friends. Who know nothing about my climbing and my climbing friends know nothing about my skating. They stand on both sides of the fence and tell me how dangerous the other side is. So for those who skate to, enjoy.

Sunday, February 23, 2014

 The Method v12


In January there was a week window of nice weather. I headed back up for a two day trip with the goal of finishing off The Method v12. The winter weather wasn't as good as I was hoping for. During the night, everything had frost on it and the chief blocked the sun until noon making for a short climbing window. Once the sun hit me, I started warming up and I decided to climb Baba Hari Dass v7, which happens to be the most contrived and popular line. You can do a easy topout anywhere as you climb up this arĂȘte but you are supposed to topout at the most awkward point making it kind of stout. For some reason, against my good judgement, I felt the obligation to complete it. Once I start trying something it is hard for me to walk away. After sending it, I headed strait to The Method. I found a way to climb strait up the face instead of traversing in from the right like I had done before.
The Crux breaks down into two moves, finding the body position to slap a right hand slippery sloper then squeezing to bring your left hand to a undercling. I fell on the undercling move repeatedly. The next day I warmed up quickly not wanting my day to be cut short again. First go, I slapped the undercling and felt a little edge I powered up on it and did the next couple of moves to the good edge out left, which was slightly wet. I stared at the lip not sure were to grab and insecure on the wet hold I lunged for a chalked up spot . It turned out to be non-existent. After that I ran around top, chalked a better hold, then rested. I knew I didn't have too many goes in me. Next go I climbed perfectly threw the crux to the wet left hand, I made the move to the newly chalked up sloper on the lip. As I started to weigh it to make the next crossover move, my left hand fired off the wet hold almost knocking me off. The rest of the topout was sketchy. I was pumped and I was trying to hold on to slippery slopers with a wet hand, but I managed to pull it off. It felt good to stand on top off such a technical test piece. It climbs very similar to Angelina Jolie v11/12 in Leavenworth. I have always really liked to climb lines of all styles. This is definitely one of the hardest slab/vert lines I have climbed. Now, on to the next one. 

                        Back to Squamish

Frontside so cool
I headed back up to Squamish in October. The weather was a perfect 40 degrees with a nice breeze. It was awesome. Squamish is a really hard place to travel to, it is either to hot or raining. It is safe to say Squamish is sandbagged but in these little weather windows that only the locals get to enjoy, the grades suddenly feel right. My goal for the trip was the three v12's on the top 100 list--Summoning, Frontside, and The Method. First off I went to Murrin Park to finish the Summoning v12, a line I had greased off of on my summer trip. It felt great in the cold and after figuring out the transitions, I managed to send it--only after blowing the move to the lip when my left hand dry fired off of a crimp. Feeling really good about the send, I headed over to the grand wall to meet up with Jesse Warren who wanted to try Room Service v12. When I got there Jesse, Paul Nadler, and Carlo Traversi where sessioning. I threw down my pad and started trying. Room Service is a burly compression line on little edges with precise thumb catches. It kind of starts in the middle of the true line which has an obvious start hold but it looks real hard so it got climbed from the middle. Jesse had worked the line prevously and was psyched. Right after I got there he climbed it. Carlo started trying dreamcatcher 5.14d when his girlfriend fed him to much slack and he almost decked on the boulder it climbs over. I tried Room Service for a bit but I was more psyched to climb on Frontside. I figured I would come back after and give it more serious attempts.
Encore un Fois v11
Shots Fired
 The next morning I ran over to Frontside to try and climb it before the sun hit it. I warmed up on Shots Fired a fantastic v4 that sits on the boulder next to Frontside. I felt really good and after
rehearsing the crux move it was game on. The crux revolves around taking a slopy right hand divot and lock it off to your side and make a big crossover move to a good edge. You can't lose to much tension because of the boulder behind you. The first time I did the crux move to quickly my head tilted back to far and I dabbed on the boulder behind me. I like that aspect of outdoor climbing the variables make things more interesting. After falling a few time on the crux from the beginning, I managed to pull it off. Frontside has to be the most inspiring line I have done in Squamish.  Paul said he was going to session Room Service that day so I headed over there. I figured I would take advantage, the climb requires a lot of pads. I figured out all the moves but I was to spent to send such a powerful line.  Paul got insanely close falling after the crux. Feeling worked, we called it a day.
 The next morning I warmed up on some really good classics on the carpet ride boulder I hadn't done. I stopped at Killa' Gorilla v8 on the way out. It looked fun but contrived. I got to work, and it was a lot more powerful then I was expecting. I finally mustered up enough strength to pull it out. I looked at the variation King Kong v10 and thought what the hell. After a couple goes I was on top. It felt substantially easier. Right above it sits The Serpent v10, and it looks awesome. I gave it a flash burn falling about half way up. Twenty minutes later I hadn't gotten a single move higher. I decided I should come back and session it with friends that could maybe throw some beta my way because I wasn't getting anywhere. I was tired so I headed to the Method v12 it is mostly a technical line with not to much burl. I had tried it in the middle of the summer and I couldn't get off the ground. I figured out the beginning and was feeling good on the crux when it started to rain. It wasn't letting up so I called it a trip and headed home.

                                              

Friday, November 15, 2013

                           Summer 2011

Some older footage I finally got around to editing. I have about forty older clips I need to put together but for now enjoy some of the best climbs Washington has to offer. Including Beautifucation, the best line in Leavenworth in my opinion. I have been climbing like crazy lately ticking of most of the best hard lines in Washington and Squamish. So lookout for good quality videos I will be putting out when my girl gets back from France (she has the only labtop that can process my camera).  Good Times.

Friday, November 1, 2013

Dave's masterpiece 

The Teacup v13





Dave Thompson made the first ascent of The Teacup. Around these parts it is rare to climb a hard line that was not put up by Johnny G. As it turns out Dave also put up God is in the Details v13 before all the knee bars brought it down to soft v12, 101 Ways to Fling Poo v12 before a hold crumbled and got bigger now v10, Beautification v11 best climb in Leavenworth in my opinion, but his crown jewel is definitely The Teacup v13. I first meet Dave at Stone Gardens. He was the crusher, I was the noob trying to work my way up the ladder. Over time I became good enough to climb on the same lines as him and we became friends. We have very similar styles. I learned learned a lot by watching him climb.
        The Teacup is definitely a classic perfect hard line that everyone knows about and not meany have done. Dave, Johnny, Joel, and Cole have really paved the way for Washington bouldering. I made a goal to repeat there lines and get a good foundation for future first ascents. Last fall I had cleaned up on most of the hard lines so I tried The Teacup and it felt surprisingly doable. Then came the rain. First good day that following spring 2013 I was right back at it. I had a lot of psych after thinking about it all winter. I soon found out that it sits in the sun all day. I opt for a night session. Great temps made the holds fill so crisp. I fired the crux move first go, I knew it was on. After fumbling the first move a couple times (it has a crappy heel hook that doesn't like to stay) I was on top finishing my first v13 and adding my name to the elite list of ascentists. That line is a great mile stone in my climbing, now on to bigger and better objectives.
That following fall  I watched Carlo Traverse also repeat the line with some crazy short guy beta. More impressive was his take down of the infamous Latter proj naming it The Penrose Step v14. I can't wait to try. A couple of weeks later Jimmy Webb made the first flash of The Teacup, very impressive. I am not as big of a fan of flashes as I am limit pushing fa's or repeats. I hope that both of them add more hard perfect lines for me to test myself on.     
Proj by The Teacup



Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Squamish

Right after I first started climbing I moved to Washington. Thinking there wasn't anything to climb on in my new home, at least there was Squamish a mire three and a half hours away. I had watched Sharma tear up Squamish (in Rampage) hundreds of times and The Egg being one of my favorite lines in the movie. My friend Kenny and I decided to make the pilgrimage to check it out, only needing my id to cross the border. At the time I was a v4 climber at best, so after seeing the lines in person I could only fantasize about a time when I was good enough to climb them especially The Egg. Right before I moved to Washington my dad had died unexpectedly. I was in a bad place and I was self medicating. The trip was a disaster. It was a hazy two days of climbing poorly but seeing those lines motivated me to become a better climber. I know its cheesy to say this but climbing gave me something to LIVE for, a reason to get healthy. 
Fast forward five clean years. The rules had changed, you needed a passport to cross the border. I couldn't justify paying for a passport when the climbing in Washington is so good (better then Squamish in my opinion) but this summer I was getting bummed by the heat and was thinking maybe Squamish would be a cooler option. So I shelled out the money for the passport and made my way through the interrogation that is the border crossing.
That first real trip was awesome! I felt like a kid in a candy store running around climbing loads of classics. Myles and I decided to stayed for a week. Finding out quickly that the camping situation in Squamish sucks. The campsites are outrages, eight dollars per person per night and it was full. The other campsite thirty bucks a night. So we decided to stay at the north walls. Are first hole in the wall camp got pounded with dust by the endless supply of construction trucks speeding recklessly down the road. One even peeled out to kick up dirt on us as we stood on the side of the road. So we moved camp way down the road to a lonely site. Camp 2, was eerily silent (no wind), as it got dark we started to hear noises of animals move around camp. Myles's imagination got the best of him with worst case scenarios. So then of course I got nervous. I brushed it off as field mice and went to sleep. That night Myles woke up to a deep breathing sound. Fearing it was a bear and paralyzed by fear, he plotted his escape for the next half hour. Finally realizing the breathing was coming from me in the other tent. Needless to say Myles wanted to move camp the next day. Camp 3, a beautiful spot right by the river were we managed to stay three days. The first day a hiker passively told us that people get kick out of that spot (with a dick undertone).
River next to Camp 3
On the third morning at that camp 3, that snooty hiker past by with a smirk on his face. Ten minutes later the rangers were kicking us out. Camp 4 this time we decided to find a spot so hidden as to not be bothered. This was a harder task then expected. Every spot that looked good we would wander back into the woods there were tents already there. We found small cities hidden everywhere.The last two nights we had to bushwhack deep in to the woods to get to are tent every night and we had neighbors.

Back to the climbing, my favorite send of the week was managing to get my butt up The Egg v11 after a extremely humid night session ended poorly making me doubt myself. The next day was hot as I was warming up but as I made my way to The Egg I got some cloud coverage and a send breeze kicked up. The stars had a lined and after a short session I had ticked it off my life list.
The video has a lot of my favorite sends from the trip but vimeo will only let upload about six minutes of footage. There are about ten more good lines from that first trip. I will put them in a extra video.