Saturday, March 28, 2015

Road Trip Part 2: Red Rocks 1

Red Rocks

Red Rocks is an amazing climbing destination. It has everything: bouldering, trad, sport climbing, and endless trail systems that are really hard to follow. Of course, most of our time was spent bouldering and thankfully there were awesome blocs to choose from. Ben and I were both able to send two hard lines in one of are first days in Red Rock. Black Velvet has a small concentration of lines but they are beautiful. I was able to take down a line that has crimpy but surprisingly friendly holds called Freedom Fighter v5/6 and this other super cool line called The Little V4.

Freedom Fighter

The Little
The Little felt pretty hard to me, probably because it was a compression line, which I am not very good at. Despite this, it was probably one of my favorite sends of Red Rocks and it is a stand alone awesome line that I would highly recommend. I also did Natasha's Highball V2, which took all my will power and mental strength to flash, but I am so glad I did. It is definitely high and mentally straining but I would also highly recommend this line. It is graded a V2 but the moves are all V0 moves.

Natasha's Highball

Ben was able to send two sweet V12's in the area. He took them both down pretty quickly, each within about 15 tries. The first one he crushed was Abaddon v12. This climb is this really cool overhanging face that ends with a dicey topout, which was probably more scary for me than for Ben. Red Rocks has probably the most beautiful rock I have every seen. The rock has stripes, spots, bumps, and so many other different formations.

It is probably the friendliest sandstone I have ever climbed on. None of us got one hole in our fingers the whole month we were there. One of the only drawbacks to Red Rocks is how spread out it is. Besides the Kraft area, you have to hike on average for about 30 minutes for a very small cluster of boulders or even just one boulder. To Abaddon and The Little it was about a 35 minute hike, but the area you are hiking into, Black Velvet Canyon is a super cool canyon.

Atlas Shrugged

It has these huge jutting walls that have multiple trad climbs on them with perfect maroon colored rock. The boulders sit in the gully below this awesome cliff. The other line Ben sent was Atlas Shrugged V12. This is such a beautiful line that has big friendly holds and cream colored rock. This is probably our best individual climbing day in Red Rocks.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Road Trip: First stop Bishop

This is Davita Gurian. Our first stop on this climbing adventure was Bishop, California. We were originally suppose to meet some friends in Bishop, but we left a few days late and were unable to climb with them. Never the less, we climbed in Bishop and started to hone in on some projects. As we climbed more and more those first days we quickly got reunited with the sharp and slippery rock that is the Buttermilks. It is surprising to me that rock can be sharp, painful, and slippery all at the same time. I began to work on Iron Man Traverse v4, which I personally think is very stiff for a v4 and I wouldn’t mind an upgrade of this line. Maybe it’s because I don’t have much endurance so I get really pumped by the end, but this line just felt so hard to me. I put about 4 days into it and still was unable to make a send before we left.  The moves pulling the lip on Iron Man are truly heartbreaking. 

Sent Cave Problem V4 
One of the days working my proj was pretty exciting because Daniel and Courtney Woods showed up to climb on Iron Man. It would be weird being a pro climber having people just stand around you whispering while taking pictures of you climbing. I also did all the moves on a v6 called Milk the Milks, but I was also unable to put this one together before we left. We were kind of itching to leave because we were really not enjoying the Buttermilk texture. Roxana had been trying Solarium, which is a fun v4 in the Happy’s. She put a few days into this problem as well and got super close but was also unable to send before we left. I personally think the Happy’s are much more fun than the Buttermilks because the rock is so much friendlier. Roxana did put down a really sick v3 called King Tut in the Buttermilks.
Ben was able to put together some really cool lines. 

The coolest looking out of the lines he did was Solitaire Sit v10, which has a wild first move leading into the v8 stand. Besides this quality line, Ben sent Maze of Death v12, which has extremely sharp little crimps and slippery feet. It is amazing in Bishop that foot chips can be so big but so useless because they are so slippery. Granite in Washington is nothing like this. You can have tiny feet with great texture that are more secure than some of the bigger foot holds in Bishop. Maze of Death took Ben about 3 days and he sent it the day before we left. It was a relief when he sent it because Roxana and I didn’t necessarily love the hike up to Maze of Death…and we were also super psyched for Ben for sending it. We stayed in Bishop for about 10 days in total, and by the end we had decided that next year we will skip the sharp and painful holds of Bishop and head straight to Red Rocks or Moe’s Valley in Utah for some fun sandstone climbing. Our next stop is Red Rocks. Bring on the hiking.

Sendage of Maze of Death v12

A scary highball in the Happy's

Ben sending Therapy v8.

He Got Game v11

Having some fun on Heavenly Path.

Even though the rock may not be the best, Bishop is a beautiful place.  

Monday, December 15, 2014

Skate Part

Climbing has been taking up all my time in the last couple years but on rest days I love to skate.
I managed to get out a little with my friends and stack enough footage to put together a short part.
My part starts at 8:40 enjoy.

Spring in Leavy

Leavenworth Spring 2014 from Ben Herrington on Vimeo.

Nate on Geronimo v8
Obe Wan v9

Spring was short lived but fun. I had a really fun trip with Nate and Alex. I wanted to get into outdoor shape by trying to flash some lines. We went to the Star Wars boulder where I managed a flash of Emperor's Lightning v7. Feeling good, I tried Obe Wan v9. Thirty try's later I finally stuck the first move and put it together. Man is it just me or is that thing hard for the grade? Then I tried Yoda v9. Bad foot choices cost me the flash.  I bared down second try and finished it off. Obe Wan felt way harder. Then we headed down the road to Geronimo v8. On the flash go I slapped the lip in the wrong place and fell. I cruised it right after with the right beta. All in all I suck at flashing.

FA of Mr. Yuk v12

 I was feeling a little aimless having finished off a lot of the lines I really wanted to do. I started to search a lot for new projects to get psyched on and returned to ones I had found in the past that I had deemed to hard. I was walking down from the 420 boulders when I remembered a sweet line of barely there holds with a cool starting rail. I went over there to check it out and it was even cooler then I remembered. I got to work cleaning and figuring out the beta. At first, I thought it wouldn't be to hard maybe v10/11. I was getting really close on that first day. I tried to find better beta for the top when I broke a giant foothold and slammed my chest against the wall. The top became a bit harder especially from the beginning. I came back a week later, but it was too hot and I had to wait until the sun set to try it. The holds are so small and barely there. I got really close a couple times then I split my finger on the crux left hand crimp. I tried for a while with tape but I wasn't getting anywhere with such small holds. I ripped the tape off and gave it the classic last go. When I stuck the crux move to the small crimp I thought, don't screw this up. Mr. Yuk v12 was born and my finger was thrashed. It was really cool finding this line not knowing if it would go and then coming full circle and climbing it. That is the feeling that makes developing so fun, the imagination, the unknown.

Nate on Emperor's Lightning v7
Alex on Darth Maul, v5 in my book
Yoda v9 

Should have flashed but I will settle for second go

I found and cleaned the Rager proj it was hiding in plan site
Really cool holds on really good rock

I spent a day at Middle Fork at the Booka Boulders. This line Man About Town v8/9
and The Gong Show v9 are the standout lines of the area. I tried to add a funky
stemming low start to this problem but I couldn't make one of the moves.

Quantum Mechanics v10

Let it be known, that the original Quantum Mechanics was
 done from this start. The v7 start needs to get a different name. 
Davita cruising Giant Man v4
Sick proj. Jug start, it climbs up the arete with little crimp
side pulls to oppose on a 70 degree wall.
Sweet highball project

Friday, September 26, 2014

Joe's Valley

Spring Break in Joe's Valley from Ben Herrington on Vimeo.
Davita crushing Kill By Numbers v5

It seems that every year i have to make the pilgrimage to Joe's Valley. The climbing there is so fun. Friendly texture, pretty lines, and lot's to do.

Dark Side of the Moon v5 on the Nerf wall

Peter finally committing to the top

Happy Valley v7 burly

The one that got away Blackout v13 next time

Super fun Guppy v7

Techy Point Break v8

Sunny one minute snowing the next. This happened alot

Power Couple 

They broke up and ruined are road trip crew

Last day skin
Sweet Project 

Monday, May 26, 2014

Bishop Winter 2013 from Ben Herrington on Vimeo.

Peter on Fly Boy ArĂȘte v5
                                                                                                           Scanner Darkly
My girlfriend Davita and I headed down to Bishop for her two week winter vacation. We met up with our travel buddies Peter and Roxana. The goal for the trip was to try Spector v13, which is by the way one of the best lines I have ever see and by far the best in Bishop. The first week we where there sucked. It was way to cold, and we spent most of are time at the Happies where we could climb in direct sunlight from noon to four. It made climbing a tedious task, but I didn't want to leave empty handed. I managed to climb Kill On Sight v12 in a quick session. In this down grade crazed time we live in, I am surprised this one hasn't gotten the axe. Davita killed it crushing Solarium v4. By week two the weather was nice, so we got to work at the Buttermilks. I warmed up to the area climbing Junior Achievement v8, Iron Fly v9, Moonraker v8/9, and Evilution to the lip v10. I surprised myself by climbing Evilution in a couple of goes with about five pads. I could hear them shuffling them around as I climbed and when I dropped from the lip one foot barely missed the pads. We moved over to the Grandma Peabody and I climbed Thunderbird v11 and started trying the sit Direction v13. I did all the moves when I punched a nice hole in my finger on the crux razor crimp that you yard on to make the jump move. I came back some days later and I fell on the last hard move, the match after the jump. Next time. The other climb I got interested in was Scanner Darkly v12. I did the stand v9, did all the moves on the sit from the legit start which is a lot harder and made some good links. I came back on a really hot day and got no were on it. It has a really sharp undercling that the crux revolves around that wrecked my skin on three of my fingers. I couldn't manage to climb it with tape. Next time. Davita climbed her hardest climb outside Go Granny Go v5 after a couple days work. Last was Spector v13, I tried it twice with a cool guy I met named Sander, he got as close as you can get without sticking the crux move (he also sent Scanner). On the last day I got close using a heel hook. Last try I was doing the set up move when I heard a pop, it was the pulley in my palm for my index finger. All in all, I had a good time, but I didn't send any of the hard lines that I really wanted to do. I will have to go back to finish them off. 

Davita crushing Go Granny Go v5


Gang Bang

I'm not the biggest fan of Bishop. The lines are good looking, but the rock is crap. I like friction. Bishop is super slippery and polished. It's good but not world class. Climbing is always fun, but in my opinion Bishop doesn't live up to the other bouldering meccas.

Davita killing it