Monday, August 31, 2015

Road Trip Moe's Valley


Moe's was a battle to say the least. The weather so far on the trip was way to hot, but the day we show up in Moe's we woke up to a foot of snow. We chilled in a hotel room for two days to get some much needed R&R. While waiting for Moe's to dry out we tried to go sport climbing at Hurricave. After driving around for awhile, we finally saw it and we where underwhelmed to say the least, chosspile. So we headed to the Cathedral. The directions were horrible, never trust Mountain Project for anything that website is a waste of time. We found the parking area then walked up the wash way to far and had to cut across the hill side to what I thought looked like the right place. We got lucky and found it and boy is that sport cliff amazing. Golden stands out on the cliff as one of the best sport lines I have ever seen. As soon as we started to climb we realized that the rock was way to cold, numbing out ten moves in. I only managed to climb the warm up before we threw in the towel.
Back in Moe's the weather had jumped from freezing to 75 so shade was a must. First on the list was Crusaders for Justice v12/13. I had gotten close on it two years ago but got shut down by hot weather. This time the weather wasn't much better but I guess I had gotten better as a climber and managed to squeeze it out one morning before the sun hit the problem, making the slopers impossible to hold.  Another amazing problem, Show of Hands v11,  always stood out to me as one of the best lines, so I was really happy to put that one down as well. The toe hook on that thing is deceiving. It looks like a jug toe hook but the rock is slippery on that part of the problem making that the crux for me. I really wanted to try Booka Booka Booka v13. It looks awesome, but after trying it a couple times I realized I could not hold the three finger pocket with my injured finger.
After a couple days of bouldering it decided to rain for seven days strait. On semi dry days we past the time climbing at the VRG. The girls are not fond of ropes and they let me know it. I climbed a couple ok routes nothing that stood out to me but I didn't get to try the cool looking harder routes because the girls were not down with belaying on the ledge.
After what felt like forever Moe's finally dried out. Davita crushed her project Israil v6 and Roxana climbed a v4. I tried Meatbag v12/13 a sweet roof with big moves on perfect edges. I got really close but decided to come back. The next session the weather had jumped to 85, I tried to get on Meatbag before it got too hot with no avail. I flopped all over that thing making no headway. The weather was getting to all of us so we decided to head for greener pastures. Meatbag will have to wait until next time. Joe's Valley here we come.
The Goose v4
Fun v3
Sichuan Peppercorn v5
Davita trying the best line in Moe's
Gription v9 

                     Road Trip more Red Rocks

Reflecting Pool V13


Stand and Deliver V11
 Taking it easy is not my cup of tea. With this in mind, Nick and I spent a lot of time shredding the skateparks and we tried to take it easy by sport climbing. Most of the walls we roped up at the group was not to psyched on. Once I saw Monster Skank 5.13b it changed everything. Every line on that wall is amazing. Despite these beautiful lines, the girls where done after a week of sport and wanted to boulder. All I could think about was the lines I wanted to finish before I left, but I will be back for Monster Skank, it's to good not to do.
    Because I hurt my finger in the palm on an open hand three finger, I couldn't three finger anything, but if I backed it up with my pinky it wasn't so bad. Also the crimp position felt better as long as I wasn't yarding on it. The three lines I really wanted to do before I left were Hungry Hungry Hippos v12, Reflecting Pool v13, and Siren's Call v11/12. It was getting even hotter so we headed to Willow Springs. The area is mostly in the shade the second half of the day. I had a really good day where I managed to flash Ride the White Horse v10. I finally didn't botch my flash. Davita climbed Little Pony v5/6 on the backside then I climbed Stampede v7 and started trying to add a direct. When complete, it will be a very reachy tension filled line.
I then worked out the beta on Reflecting Pool. The crux for me became changing my heel hook to a toe. A couple days later I had a heart breaker where I hit the final jug, I had it in the bag, when my left hand fired off sending me screaming and running around. Thankfully I sent next go or I would have been furious. Because of the heat, we where searching out lines deep in the shade of the canyons. We made the 45 min trek out to Juniper Canyon where Davita and I sent 25 cent v4/5 which is maybe the best line in Red Rocks and Stand and Deliver v11 also a definite contender. I had spent a couple days trying Siren's Call and Hungry Hippos but they both sit in the sun all day. On our last day the weather dropped to 65 degrees and cloudy with some wind. I waited for Siren's to go in the shade in the evening. I finally stuck the precision move to the left hand crimp only to blow the dyno. A couple tries later I stuck the crimp again but my foot blew. I was surprised to hold it and stick the dyno. That deadpoint ended up being the hardest move I did on the trip.  Last up was Hungry, we made the trek up the hill. I wasn't felling great having tweaked my index finger on my right hand on Siren's but it was the last day. I surprised myself by putting it down in a couple trie. Boy the wind and clouds made a huge difference making it feel significantly easier. It was the best finish to a trip I have had in a long time. Rarely do things work out so well.
Dyno on Siren's Call v11/12
We Need Ice V11 
Davita on 25 Cent v5 the most perfect boulder
40 foot highball V2 in Windy Canyon
Hungry Hungry Hippos v12
Stampede Direct Project
Little Pony V5/6
Flash of Ride the White Horse V10