Monday, August 31, 2015

                     Road Trip more Red Rocks

Reflecting Pool V13


Stand and Deliver V11
 Taking it easy is not my cup of tea. With this in mind, Nick and I spent a lot of time shredding the skateparks and we tried to take it easy by sport climbing. Most of the walls we roped up at the group was not to psyched on. Once I saw Monster Skank 5.13b it changed everything. Every line on that wall is amazing. Despite these beautiful lines, the girls where done after a week of sport and wanted to boulder. All I could think about was the lines I wanted to finish before I left, but I will be back for Monster Skank, it's to good not to do.
    Because I hurt my finger in the palm on an open hand three finger, I couldn't three finger anything, but if I backed it up with my pinky it wasn't so bad. Also the crimp position felt better as long as I wasn't yarding on it. The three lines I really wanted to do before I left were Hungry Hungry Hippos v12, Reflecting Pool v13, and Siren's Call v11/12. It was getting even hotter so we headed to Willow Springs. The area is mostly in the shade the second half of the day. I had a really good day where I managed to flash Ride the White Horse v10. I finally didn't botch my flash. Davita climbed Little Pony v5/6 on the backside then I climbed Stampede v7 and started trying to add a direct. When complete, it will be a very reachy tension filled line.
I then worked out the beta on Reflecting Pool. The crux for me became changing my heel hook to a toe. A couple days later I had a heart breaker where I hit the final jug, I had it in the bag, when my left hand fired off sending me screaming and running around. Thankfully I sent next go or I would have been furious. Because of the heat, we where searching out lines deep in the shade of the canyons. We made the 45 min trek out to Juniper Canyon where Davita and I sent 25 cent v4/5 which is maybe the best line in Red Rocks and Stand and Deliver v11 also a definite contender. I had spent a couple days trying Siren's Call and Hungry Hippos but they both sit in the sun all day. On our last day the weather dropped to 65 degrees and cloudy with some wind. I waited for Siren's to go in the shade in the evening. I finally stuck the precision move to the left hand crimp only to blow the dyno. A couple tries later I stuck the crimp again but my foot blew. I was surprised to hold it and stick the dyno. That deadpoint ended up being the hardest move I did on the trip.  Last up was Hungry, we made the trek up the hill. I wasn't felling great having tweaked my index finger on my right hand on Siren's but it was the last day. I surprised myself by putting it down in a couple trie. Boy the wind and clouds made a huge difference making it feel significantly easier. It was the best finish to a trip I have had in a long time. Rarely do things work out so well.
Dyno on Siren's Call v11/12
We Need Ice V11 
Davita on 25 Cent v5 the most perfect boulder
40 foot highball V2 in Windy Canyon
Hungry Hungry Hippos v12
Stampede Direct Project
Little Pony V5/6
Flash of Ride the White Horse V10 

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