Leavenworth  Spring 2013

Green Lung Sit proj (I can't wait for fall)

 This spring was some of the best weather for climbing in Leavenworth. After I climbed the Teacup I was feeling a little aimless, so I decided to finish up Thunderdome low. It's a perfect line. I had done Thunderdome a year earlier and got close on the low but hadn't tried it since then. So I warmed up and went strait to it. It felt really good this time and I sent it in a couple goes. Then, Myles and I headed down hill so I could show him The Strainer. A sweet v8 prowl on the right of the trail before Yosemite Highball. I climbed it again for fun and took pictures while Myles figured out the moves. I heard Tim Doyle was trying the Green Lung sit proj on the back of the boulder next to it.  I headed back there to check it out. It's sweet. So I got to work on the stand around v10 that Luke put up. I sent it after some work. The climb is technical body positioning and you have to burl down on every move. The true prize is the sit with an obvious starting edge. I figured all the moves out but it is hard. It's only three moves into the stand but it makes it at least v12.  A proj for this fall. I am unsure if Tim has climbed it yet. I would be psyched to climb it either way but getting the fa would be icing on the cake.

Myles on The Strainer v8

Fa of Blood Diamond v9ish

       












 The next day, I remembered a big perfect line that I had scrubbed and tried a year ago, but the landing is a little rocky so I hadn't given it a real try yet. I recruited Paul and Myles to come try it. Its a perfect line, jug start, blank wall, and a sweet dyno to a bucket. After about a half-hour of work I found a way that worked for me with a crucial little right hand pinch that Paul started using. So I committed to the dyno and snagged the first ascent of Blood Diamond. Paul was trying to find a static way around the dyno that might go but not yet.

A fun burly roof at the Airfield 

Afterward we headed down to Turbulence v12. I tried the dyno for a while then started to try the static method. We figured out a way to make it work static that definitely felt better. Soon after Paul fired it. I got close but was to tired. Next time for sure. I can't wait to go back when it cools down and finish both lines.

Before we went down to Blood Diamond, Myles and I made the tedious hike and spent most of the day up at the Airfield climbing a bunch of lines names and grades unknown. Here are some pics.

A fun line on the way to the Airfield